Anzère

.

Today we went skiing in Anzère, a small village about an hour-and-a-half from Lausanne. We picked the relatively small ski area given that it's currently the winter break week for the public Swiss schools in our canton and some of the more popular resort areas were likely packed.

Anzère definitely has a beginner feel to it relative to other Swiss ski areas. This was fine by me given that I'm not the expert skier that Emilie is and can definitely benefit from practicing a bit on some easier terrain.

The weather was nice with mostly sunny skies and high clouds. Given all the cold weather of late, it was nice to finally have some warmer temps.

Here's a picture that I took later in the day looking back on the Rhone Valley (right side of photo) between the Bernese and Pennine Alps.

More Cross Country

.

Given the great snow conditions, we decided to head back to Emilie's mom's place this weekend in order to do some more cross-country skiing. We figured we might as well make the most of all the snow while it lasts given that last year was pretty poor on that front and who knows what to expect next year.

On Saturday we decided to take a longer ski route than normal and ended up passing a farmhouse where sled dogs are raised. The fenced area outside the house must have had over 30 dogs and they were going absolutely nuts as it was apparently feeding time. You probably can't see from the picture below, but the doghouses were completely covered in snow so it looked like the dogs had igloos.

Shortly after passing the farmhouse, we heard some barking behind us and it turned out to be another cross-country skier who was taking out four of the sled dogs for a practice run. I wanted to take a picture, but they were too fast and nearly out of sight before I was able to grab my phone.

***

On Sunday we went skiing again and were joined by Emilie's mom and sister, who can be seen conquering a difficult hill in the photo below.

It had snowed for much of the night before, which left the a nice layer of powder on the pistes. This made the skiing a bit harder but allowed for more scenic views given the snow-covered trees.

Adelboden

.

This weekend Emilie and I went to Adelboden, for the third installment of what has become an annual ski trip. We drove up Saturday morning and, given the continued arctic temperatures, decided to buy a couple of additional items at the ski shop to fend off the cold.

One of the items purchased was a ski mask that fit under your helmet and only left your eyes exposed. As a result, we definitely looked a bit interesting (see picture of Emilie below) but nonetheless were able to stay pretty warm.

The weather was beautiful, though there was a bit of a haze half-way up the mountain. Thanks to the cold weather, there weren't very many people on the slopes.

We stayed at the same hotel as in prior years. For those who have read my prior accounts of our visits to Adelboden, this is the same hotel where we had the nude sauna incident a few years back.

As is customary with our Adelboden visits, we had a nice dinner with viande des Grisons and fondue moitié-moitié. Normally I'm indifferent with respect to fondue, but this time it was excellent.

***

The weather was beautiful on Sunday, albeit still freezing. If nothing else, the cold weather definitely kept the crowds away and the snow conditions good.

Bearded Gargoyle

The following picture is from an article about the recent cold weather in Switzerland. It shows a gargoyle from a fountain in Zurich that has grown a bit of facial hair thanks to the cold weather.

Versoix

.

The vague de froid has continued and there appears to be no end in sight. To give you a feel for how cold it's been, the following are some pictures that Emilie's sister forwarded to me.

They were taken by someone along the lake in Versoix, which is a town near Geneva on the way to Lausanne. The combination of the strong wind, water from the lake, and bitter cold resulted in some interesting natural forms of "ice art".

I particularly like the ice-covered cars, which don't look like they'll be going anywhere for a while.

The same is probably true for the boats, below.

The edge of the lake was effectively covered in ice.

  

Here are some lakeside benches. The ones in the second photo actually look as though they're pure ice.

The ice-covered trees are also interesting. I particularly like the one in the last photo, which looks a bit like a chandelier.

Freezing in the Jura

This weekend we braved the cold and went to Emilie's mom's for some cross-country skiing. Given the cold, the entire ride felt like we were passing through ghost towns. Absolutely no one was outside and we hardly saw any other cars.

Here's a photo that I took from the car as we were passing by the town of Bellfontaine on our way to ski on Saturday. The landscape in the foreground looked a bit lunar to me with the wind-blown undulations.

The town where we went skiing both days -- Chapelle des Bois -- was equally deserted, with absolutely no one outside.

Thus we weren't overly surprised to find that virtually no one was on the cross-country pistes either. I have to admit, the first 15 minutes or so of skiing each day was a bit painful but after warming up a bit it wasn't that bad. That said, it was way too cold to stop and take any pictures.

Lang Lang

Tonight Emilie and I went to Geneva to see a performance by Lang Lang, a celebrated Chinese concert pianist. And as you likely have already guessed, Emilie was the driving force behind this cultural excursion given my utter lack of knowledge on the classical music front.

Since we needed to leave for the concert directly from work, I took the train to Geneva and met up with Emilie at the concert hall. As such, I had to find my way from the train station to the venue and stupidly decided to opt for the 15 minute walk rather than trying to navigate the distance by public transportation.

In short, the combination of the freezing temperatures (exacerbated by the cold wind coming off the lake) and my bonehead decision to try to navigate by memory, resulted in a miserable and unnecessary 30-minute tour of Geneva. And thanks to my prescient decision to leave my gloves at home, I inflicted additional pain on myself through the borderline frostbite that resulted from my attempts to leverage the (incredibly inprecise) GPS function on my phone to help guide the way.

Given the unexpected delay, I arrived at the venue after the concert had started. This probably worked out for the best, though, as it took a good 20 minutes for me to thaw out and collect myself. Plus, there were TV's in the reception area, so I was at least able to see/hear what I was missing.

After the intermission I joined Emilie at our seats. The balance of the concert was nice, though I don't think that I ever really recovered enough to fully appreciate Lang Lang's performance. Here's the view that we had from our seats.

If you look closely at the photo, you can see that there was a small section of seats on-stage behind the piano. This resulted in one of the more awkward moments of the night, as a few of the people seated there decided to leave (thus walking across the stage) just as Lang Lang was returning for a second encore performance. Fortunately, he had a good attitude and made a joke about it.

Vague de Froid

While the forecast indicated that it was supposed to get colder, I had no idea how cold it was actually going to get (approaching zero Fahrenheit in Lausanne before wind-chill). I can't say for sure that this is the coldest that I've ever been, but I'm sure that it's pretty close.

The vague de froid ("wave of cold"), as it's being referred to across all the local news outlets, is apparently hitting the broader European continent extremely hard. Sadly, this has included a significant number of deaths in some eastern and central European countries.

Given such grave consequences, I feel bad complaining about the relatively minor impact that the cold weather has had on me (most notably the freezing conditions while waiting for the bus home at night). Nonetheless, I have to say that conditions really are brutal. 

Highlighting how far reaching the vague de froid is, here's a photo that I found online of the Piazza del Popolo in Rome covered in snow. I also saw a similar photo of the Collosseum.

Arctic Temps

It was absolutely freezing today and the arctic chill is supposed to continue for the foreseeable future. While the cold weather should be good for the snow conditions up in the mountains, it definitely makes you wish that you didn't have to leave the apartment.

The weather was a bit "warmer" this weekend, but that didn't provide much motivation to go outside and be productive. It was snowing up in the mountains, so we cancelled our plans to ski on Saturday and instead reaquainted ourselves with the couch.

Last week it snowed in Lausanne, a phenomenon that typically happens a handful of times a year. While the snow didn't really hold up on the sidewalks / streets, it still gave the trees a nice winter look.

More snow is forecast for this week. Given the freezing temperatures expected, perhaps it will hold up a bit better.

Chatel

Yesterday Emilie and I went to Chatel, France, for a day of (downhill) skiing. Chatel is a little more than an hour from Lausanne by car and is part of the Portes du Soleil ski area, which spans both Switzerland and France.

I took the following photo shortly before we arrived. It's definitely been a great season in terms of snowfall -- much different from last year, when there was very little snow and unseasonably warm weather.

It snowed for much of the day, which resulted in plenty of fresh powder but also made the skiing very tiring. Fortunately, there wasn't much wind, so it never really got overly cold. Plus, the weather kept a lot of people off the slopes, so it was relatively empty.

We stopped for a late-afternoon lunch at a restaurant at the base of one of the runs. The owner, "Babeth", loved attention and seemed to be of the opinion that, in addition to a lunch, her customers were also looking for a performance.

She sang, danced -- often with reluctant patrons who were too nice to say "non, merci" despite being in ski boots -- and was a particularly big fan of disco music. But at least she seemed to be enjoying her job, albeit while likely embarassing her teenage daughter, who happened to be a waitress there.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a picture of the "entertainment". But I was able to track down the restaurant's website, which includes a large section devoted to Babeth herself (here's the link).

After lunch it was more or less a white-out as the snow started to come down much harder. We kept going for another couple of hours, but the conditions deteriorated pretty quickly and exhaustion also started to creep in.

X-country in the Jura

 

This weekend Emilie and I headed back to Emilie's mom's place for some more cross-country skiing. My x-mas gift this year from Emilie was a set of skis, boots and poles, so we're planning to get as much use out of them as possible. Plus, the snow conditions this year have been great, so we might as well take advantage while it lasts.

Unlike during our last visit to the Jura for New Years, this weekend the weather was beautiful with lots of sun. Heres a photo that I took during Saturday's outing.

On Sunday we skiied an area that I hadn't been to before: Bellefontaine. It was nice to get a bit of a scenery change, particularly since the area was much more open than normal allowing for plenty of sunshine.

The snow wasn't as nice on Sunday -- a bit icy and unforgiving -- but the nice weather made up for it.

French Speaking?

Last year during my visit to Montreal it more or less felt like the French that everyone was speaking sounded nothing like that which is spoken in Switzerland and France. Even slang and figures of speech aside, the pronunciation seemed very different and largely unintelligible (at least for me).

While watching TV last night I came across a French Canadian program that was playing on TV5 (a French language channel). It was pretty funny to see the subtitles given that for the most part it was simply a transcription -- rather than a translation -- of what was being said.

It's somewhat comforting that native French speakers outside Canada also struggle (at least somewhat) with Quebecois French and benefit from subtitles. I guess this is analogous to an English language program with thick British, Irish or Scottish accents that utilizses subtitles when shown in the U.S.

La Scala

While the highlight of Sunday was definitely our visit to La Scala to see Don Giovanni, the performance wasn't until early afternoon so we had some time see some more sights beforehand. The followiong is Castello Sforzesco, a castle that dates back to the 15th century and was the former residence of the Duchy of Milan.

Next we visited Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a "double arcade" shopping area that was built in the 1860s. We didn't go there to shop, though, and instead just walked around a bit and admired the architecture.

Our final stop was the Palazzo Reale to see a couple of art exhibitions -- the first with works by Paul Cezanne and the second with works by Artemisia Gentileschi. While I was familiar with the former's work, I wasn't with those of the latter, who is considered one of the great painters of the Baroque period.

The following is her most famous painting -- Judith Slaying Hodofernes -- which was supposedly influenced by a similar themed painting by Caravaggio.

After finishing up with the exhibitions, we grabbed a quick lunch and the headed to La Scala. Here's a picture that Emilie took of me standing out front -- if you look closely, you can see that I'm wearing a suit (albeit not one of my new ones). I'd been told that the dress code is very formal (coat and ties required for men), so I didn't take any chances.

Here's the view of the stage from our seats before the performance. Technically, we were in one of the private balcony rooms with two others. I'd never seen an opera from a (semi) private balcony before, so this was definitely an experience.

And here's the view of rear of the opera house taken from our seats. It really was impressive to see in person. And while a lot of people had told me beforehand how spectacular a venue it is, I think that it still exceeded my expectations.

The performance was very good, though it was a bit long -- 3.5 hours including a 30 minute intermission. During the intermission I took the following photo from the main floor and was subsequently scolded by an usher. I knew that pictures weren't allowed, but a lot of others were taking them so I figured that I'd go for it as well.

If you look very closely at the third balcony to the left of the stage on the first level, you can see Emilie. She's the one who appears to be reading the program or looking at her phone.

My favorite part of the performance was that there were multimple times when the singers were off state and in other parts of the theater (including inside the main rear balcony). It really added to the experience.

After the performance we had to rush back to the hotel for our bags and the head straight to the train station for our return trip to Lausanne. Here's a building with interesting external decor that we passed along the way.

Exploring Milan

On Saturday we spent most of the day exploring the city, as we had less free time to do so on Sunday. Our first stop was the Santa Maria delle Grazie, which houses Da Vinci's famous painting of the Last Supper.

I had always assumed that the painting was framed and in some museum, but it turned out that it is a massive 15 ft x 29 ft mural on a wall in a monastery. It was very impressive to see in person, but apparently the painting has required a significant amount of restoration given the medium involved.

We spent the next couple of hours visiting a number of churches in the city, including Saint Ambrose and St. Maurice. I liked the latter, in particular, given the beautiful paintings throughout the interior.

Next we visited the Duomo, whose construction began in 1386 and took roughly six centuries to finish. We unfortunately didn't make it up to the walkway on the roof, but it was still pretty impressive to see from the ground level.

As seen in the picture below, the dark interior contrasted heavily with the white marble exterior. I particularly liked the large paintings that hung between the many columns.

Following a late risotto lunch, we spent the balance of the afternoon shopping. And, for once, it turned out to be me who was actually doing the shopping. After five years of wearing the same suits, an upgrade was long overdue. And thanks to Emilie, I found two nice ones.

While heading back to the hotel afterwards, we stopped at a museum to see a special exhibition of some of paintings by the French artist George de la Tour. My favorite was St. Joseph, which was on loan from the Louvre and demonstrates the artist's mastery of the depiction of light within a dark setting.

And here's a photo of La Scala, which we passed by after leaving the museum. It was nice to finally see the famed opera house after hearing so much about in preparation for the trip.

Milano

 

Tonight Emilie and I took the train to Milan, where we're spending the weekend. And while I've been to the Milan train station a couple of times before (for transfers), this is my first real visit to Italy's financial capital.

 

The highlight of the weekend is going to be a Sunday afternoon trip to La Scala, Milan's famed opera house. Otherwise, we plan to do some sightseeing and perhaps some shopping as well given that it's currently the sales season.

 

To be honest, I'm not sure exactly what the main sights in Milan are. And while doing a last-minute Internet search on the train, I found the following blurb on Wikitravel (based on an Italian saying) that compares Milan to Rome:

 

"Rome is a voluptuous woman whose gifts are very apparent, while Milan is the shy, demure girl whose treasures are plentiful, but discovered in time."

 

I guess we're going to need longer than a weekend...

 

Given the early evening departure and three-hour train ride, we didn't arrive until late. Here's a photo that I took of the Duomo -- Milan's gothic cathedral -- during the walk to the hotel. It was very impressive to see while illuminated at night.